Park Labrea News/Beverly Press

Flavor of India Curries to All Tastes

RESTAURANT SCENE
By Shirley FIRESTONE

I'm very happy to tell you about Flavor of India. a new restaurant that elevates Indian cooking onto higher levels of fine cuisine. Owner/chef Darshan Sihgh previously of the Bombay Cafe, uses traditional spices and ingredients in his culinary an, but takes it to the edge, adding contemporary and stylized touches, creating exciting unique signature dishes. I'm still thinking about "Chicken Frankie," a popular specialty of herbed and spiced chicken masala cooked with vegetables and stuffed in a homemade tort (burrito-style). It's served with two exquisite chutneys, (S6.50) you won't want to miss it. And if you need your pasta-fix, yes!

No preservatives or artificial coloring is ever used in his kitchen, and the cooking is lean, low in fat and healthy. Actually all foods skewered in those wonderful clay tandoori ovens are desirable because the chicken. fish, and meats are fired up to 900 degrees which can cook half a chicken in five minutes while burning off all the fat. And so much of this broiling is approved by the American Heart Association.

The restaurant has an unassuming natural charm. with much swing on their festively heated enclosed see-through patio which twinkles with jillions of "itzy­bitzy," lights seen from the street like a special event. It could be romantic for dating. And there is a big "A" in the window which makes the management very proud. I thought the interior was pleasantly comfortable, with can­dle light under personal ceiling spots, walls of mirrors to give the illusion of space, and an open kitchen. It's a happy, homey and warm, place to be, with time-honored paintings and conventional background music at the perfect hearing level for dining.

I've heard people say that they don't go to Indian restaurants because they have an aversion to curry. This is a popular misconception to think of curry as one particular spice, and as Indian chefs explain, curry is a word for a combination of many spices used to embellish various flavors. And their most common seasonings include ginger, garlic, cumin, coriander seeds, fenugreek, cardarnom, tumeric, cloves, cinnamon and mustard seeds.

We surfed the menu and were surprised to see the select beers listed, and chose a Franciscan Oakville Estate Merlot for $6 by the glass or $25 for the bottle, an excellent choice for diners favoring a rich berry-red wine.

My favorite part of every meal is the beginning, and it would be easy to fill up on their great breads, (naan). It takes lots of will-power to stop dipping them in the magnificent sauces at this place. Indian bread is made by slapping the dough against the side of the oven to bake, and no yeast is used. Basically, the recipe starts with flour, milk, and water, but when the intriguing stuffings like fresh onions, garlic. cilantro. lamb, and meats are worked into it becomes an integral part of the meal. Chef Darshan's chicken naan served with sweet tomato chutney, ($3.95) is unforgettable. I counted about seven varieties, ($2­$3.95) all made to order, fantastically hot and fresh. The dips and chutneys should be bottled, marvelous for secret-dunking or sloshing on anything. You can have a very nourishing entire meal of breads for very little bucks!

When you see the menu for the first time it will befuddle senses with all the interesting items not usually seen in Indian restaurants, such as bhel pun, India's most popular railway snack made from puffed rice, potatoes, onions, crushed wafers. noodles mixed with three chutneys and lime, garnished with cilantro. ($4).

Our appetizers were utta pam, a sought after South Indian seminola, griddle cake topped with onion, light green chili and cilantro, accompanied by coconut chutney, ($4) and aloo tikki, an Indian latke I It's made like a potato pancake, topped with chopped onions with a tamarind and green chili chutney, ($4). If you like fritters, there's chicken pakora made with all white meat, with sweet tomato chutney, ($4.95).

We chose a couple of vegetarian entrees, (and there are many) swing with sagg aloo; pureed spinach leaves and bite size potatoes sautéed with onions, ginger, and green chilis, ($5.50) and a traditional dish from Punjab India called shahi paneer, consisting of cheese, nuts, and raisins cooked with fresh tomatoes, Singer and garlic, with fenugreek, (a spice) ($6.50). And if I had to die tomorrow, I'd order their bharta, a puree of tandoori baked eggplant sautéed with onions, fresh tomatoes, ginger and green chili, ($5.500 could made-a meal of it by just slopping it over the naan with a glass of wine. But then, I love eggplant.

The chicken dishes are delicious, and you may prefer the bone-in, served with homemade mint yogurt cilantro, ($7.50). Or one without the bone, (my choice) tikka masala, first marinated, tandoori served with a tomato fenugreek saffron, sauce, ($8.95). Great stuff!

This restaurant has a lot going for it and I certainly recommend it highly. When entering you will meet the other owner and brother of the chef, Tarsern Singh at the door. If he folds his hands and nods, it's a custom meaning "I salute the soul within you." And Amen to that! 9045 Santa Monica Blvd., W. Hollywood; (310)2741715; free parking in rear, catering; Visa & Mastercard acceptable. With the exception of a few items, everything is under $10 and less. Open for lunch and dinner, Monday-Sunday. (lunch is a bargain from $5.95-$7.50).

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